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Why do I need your cables?
You know how when it get's colder, it takes longer to get going? The issus is that the cables your truck came with, aren't the cables they started out as. They've got corrosion keeping the full amount of current from reaching the starter... or the previous guy/gal who owned your truck was a hack, leaving you to deal with their sub-par work. All of these things can contribute to issues with your electrical system.
What makes these cables so special?
We're nerds for specs and finer details around here. None of that CCA (copper-clad aluminum) that's used in inferior products, or stereo installations. We only use fine-strand, SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) approved, pure copper cable. Then using a powerful electromechanical crimping machine, we crimp each solid-copper end, and finally finish the construction by adding a environmental seal made of marine grade heatshrink meeting MIL-I-23053/4. Also included are military style corrosion resistant battery connections and an ANL fuse and holder. To make the entire install simpler, every end will be labeled for ease of installation.
Do I need a bigger alternator to run these cables?
No. Every vehicle can benefit from our "better than factory" cables. The years, along with environmental damage from rain/salt water/corrosion, can greatly impact your electrical system. Our customers have consistently reported that their vehicle starts faster, charges the battery better, and many times cured electrical gremlins that were brought on by compromised wiring. We make an additional improvement to our cables that stops your charging system from boiling over the passenger side battery!
1/0 GA or 2/0 GA? Which to choose?
As far as 1/0 GA vs 2/0 GA, it's really going to depend on what mods you're going to do to. If you're staying stock, then 1/0 GA is plenty, but if you're looking at modifying it down the road (winches/lights/etc), live where the thermometer bottoms out in the winter, and want to future proof, then you'd want 2/0 GA.
These aren't just any old diesel "big 3" cables, these are the "Big 7" from JeepCables!
Kit Includes:
B- to Fender Grounds (4GA)
B- to Engine Block Grounds (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B- Frame Grounds (4GA)
B- Aux Grounds (6GA, if needed)
Alternator Lead (2GA)
B+ to Starter (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B+ Crossover Cable (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B+ to PDC (Fuse and Relay box) (4GA)
Fuse block with additional fuses
2 sets of military-style battery terminals
Big7Kits
Dodge Cummins Diesel - 2nd Gen Battery Cables Kit (1994-2002)
- Regular price
- $305.50
Why do I need your cables?
You know how when it get's colder, it takes longer to get going? The issus is that the cables your truck came with, aren't the cables they started out as. They've got corrosion keeping the full amount of current from reaching the starter... or the previous guy/gal who owned your truck was a hack, leaving you to deal with their sub-par work. All of these things can contribute to issues with your electrical system.
What makes these cables so special?
We're nerds for specs and finer details around here. None of that CCA (copper-clad aluminum) that's used in inferior products, or stereo installations. We only use fine-strand, SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) approved, pure copper cable. Then using a powerful electromechanical crimping machine, we crimp each solid-copper end, and finally finish the construction by adding a environmental seal made of marine grade heatshrink meeting MIL-I-23053/4. Also included are military style corrosion resistant battery connections and an ANL fuse and holder. To make the entire install simpler, every end will be labeled for ease of installation.
Do I need a bigger alternator to run these cables?
No. Every vehicle can benefit from our "better than factory" cables. The years, along with environmental damage from rain/salt water/corrosion, can greatly impact your electrical system. Our customers have consistently reported that their vehicle starts faster, charges the battery better, and many times cured electrical gremlins that were brought on by compromised wiring. We make an additional improvement to our cables that stops your charging system from boiling over the passenger side battery!
1/0 GA or 2/0 GA? Which to choose?
As far as 1/0 GA vs 2/0 GA, it's really going to depend on what mods you're going to do to. If you're staying stock, then 1/0 GA is plenty, but if you're looking at modifying it down the road (winches/lights/etc), live where the thermometer bottoms out in the winter, and want to future proof, then you'd want 2/0 GA.
These aren't just any old diesel "big 3" cables, these are the "Big 7" from JeepCables!
Kit Includes:
B- to Fender Grounds (4GA)
B- to Engine Block Grounds (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B- Frame Grounds (4GA)
B- Aux Grounds (6GA, if needed)
Alternator Lead (2GA)
B+ to Starter (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B+ Crossover Cable (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B+ to PDC (Fuse and Relay box) (4GA)
Fuse block with additional fuses
2 sets of military-style battery terminals
- Regular price
- $305.50
Couldn't load pickup availability
Why do I need your cables?
You know how when it get's colder, it takes longer to get going? The issus is that the cables your truck came with, aren't the cables they started out as. They've got corrosion keeping the full amount of current from reaching the starter... or the previous guy/gal who owned your truck was a hack, leaving you to deal with their sub-par work. All of these things can contribute to issues with your electrical system.
What makes these cables so special?
We're nerds for specs and finer details around here. None of that CCA (copper-clad aluminum) that's used in inferior products, or stereo installations. We only use fine-strand, SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) approved, pure copper cable. Then using a powerful electromechanical crimping machine, we crimp each solid-copper end, and finally finish the construction by adding a environmental seal made of marine grade heatshrink meeting MIL-I-23053/4. Also included are military style corrosion resistant battery connections and an ANL fuse and holder. To make the entire install simpler, every end will be labeled for ease of installation.
Do I need a bigger alternator to run these cables?
No. Every vehicle can benefit from our "better than factory" cables. The years, along with environmental damage from rain/salt water/corrosion, can greatly impact your electrical system. Our customers have consistently reported that their vehicle starts faster, charges the battery better, and many times cured electrical gremlins that were brought on by compromised wiring. We make an additional improvement to our cables that stops your charging system from boiling over the passenger side battery!
1/0 GA or 2/0 GA? Which to choose?
As far as 1/0 GA vs 2/0 GA, it's really going to depend on what mods you're going to do to. If you're staying stock, then 1/0 GA is plenty, but if you're looking at modifying it down the road (winches/lights/etc), live where the thermometer bottoms out in the winter, and want to future proof, then you'd want 2/0 GA.
These aren't just any old diesel "big 3" cables, these are the "Big 7" from JeepCables!
Kit Includes:
B- to Fender Grounds (4GA)
B- to Engine Block Grounds (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B- Frame Grounds (4GA)
B- Aux Grounds (6GA, if needed)
Alternator Lead (2GA)
B+ to Starter (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B+ Crossover Cable (1/0 or 2/0 depending on kit)
B+ to PDC (Fuse and Relay box) (4GA)
Fuse block with additional fuses
2 sets of military-style battery terminals
Frequently Bought Together
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Vendor: Big7Kits
Dodge Cummins Diesel - 3rd Gen Battery Cable Kit (2002-2009)
Regular price From $310.50 -
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Vendor: KB Diesel Performance LLC
Turbo Rebuild Kit with 360° Thrust Bearing for 2003-2010 6.0l Ford Powerstroke
Regular price $58.95 -
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Vendor: Power Driven Diesel
Power Driven High-Volume Oil Pickup Tube 89-02 12/24v Cummins
Regular price $240.00 -
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Vendor: KB Diesel Performance LLC
High Pressure Turbo Rebuild Kit for 6.4l Ford Powerstroke
Regular price $58.95